Raw Octopus Anyone?

Sashimi is a Japanese delicacy. It consists of very fresh raw meat, most commonly fish, sliced into thin pieces.

I had my first "sashimi experience" in Tokyo, Japan following an organ concert I presented there.  The hosts of the concert had planned an elaborate reception following the concert at an exquisite restaurant.  A large group of musicians and music lovers made up the loud and celebratory party consisting of at least a dozen Japanese men, our interpreter, and two English speaking Americans.  Let the party begin!


Beautiful fish aquariums lined one wall of this incredible restaurant.  Fish swam in lazy circles creating an ever-moving wall of color.  Linen covered tables were surrounded by carved chairs and benches.  The group filed in, chose a seat, and soon drinks of all variety and steaming bowls of salted edamame appeared.  Delicious to be sure.


The conversation flowed around me yet I understood not a word.  Our interpreter was enjoying his Kirin immensely and had forgotten his non-Japanese speaking charges.  Food was ordered and ordered and ordered.  Plates and plates of interesting looking food arrived and the fun began.

Two of our hosts took it upon themselves to introduce me to the wonders of Japanese sashimi.  Through gestures and signs, I soon understood I was eating raw seafood of all sorts and types!  The taste was amazing--smooth, gentle, and flavorful.  All went well until the raw octopus arrived--at least by the gestures this is what I understood I was eating.  Suddenly it seemed that one of those sticky suction cups of an octopus arm had stuck to my throat--swallowing this large rubberband-like piece of raw octopus became a challenge.  More beer, swallow, more beer, swallow and swallow!  


As I relaxed into the evening's enjoyment, I took more notice of my surroundings.  Looking through the beautiful fish tanks, I realized the sashimi chefs were standing on the opposite side of the tanks creating their lovely sashimi and sushi delicacies.  I also became suddenly aware that as the evening progressed the aquariums were becoming less and less populated with gorgeous colorful fish as those sashimi chefs helped themselves to the fish (and octopus) to create what appeared on our plates in the form of sashimi -- very fresh raw fish sliced into thin pieces!

What Do Deer, Buddha, and a Wooden Temple have in Common?

All three are located in the historic city of Nara, Japan and all three are tourist destinations.  Yes, even the deer.  The deer are considered sacred messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion so are found nearly everywhere in this sacred city, many waiting for a handout from willing tourists. 

The Sika deer roam the huge park which contains temples and museums aplenty as well as the largest wooden structure in the world, the Todaiji Temple.  The Temple first built in the early 700s was actually more grand then the existing Temple of 1709.  (The current building was finished in 1709, and although immense—57 m long and 50 m wide—it is actually 30% smaller than its predecessor. Nevertheless, the Daibutsuden is considered the largest building in the world made primarily of wood.)

As if the deer and the largest wooden structure in the world aren't enough, there's more.  The Todaiji Temple houses the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana!  This 52 foot high statue was completed in 751 AD after three years of casting work.  Documentation states that over 2,6000,000 people worked on the immense temple and Buddha, and that the project nearly bankrupted Japan's economy, consuming most of the available bronze of the time.

And those sacred Sika deer of Nara?

"On our way to the shrine, many deer appeared in the morning darkness. This is a sign from the gods and a good omen. People say that when one encounters deer, he or she should get out of the carriage and bow to them."

— From Gyokuyo by Kujo Kanezane of the 12th century

The Colors of Koi

A weariness that only 36 hours of travel can bring had descended upon my body.  I was ready for only one thing--sleep!  However, my hosts had a different plan.  It was early afternoon and they knew that sleep was the last thing I should have at that moment if I was to become quickly acclimated to a time zone a mere ten hours earlier than what I had left. 

Instead of a rest on a tatami mat spread on a wood floor, I was instead given the back seat in a tiny van headed for yet another train station.  Arriving at the train platform standing high above the rice paddies, we boarded a high speed train for the mountains towering above Kanagawa, Japan.  Speeding along the train rocked so severely that sleep again was impossible.  After all, if I stayed awake I might just glimpse Mt. Fuji in the distance.

An hour later we were whisked off the train in the gathering dusk to climb aboard yet another small van.  The van this time took us not through conjested city streets, but along curving roads high into the mountains.  The goal of this afternoon of travel was to arrive at a place of peace, calm, gentleness and relaxation -- the Hakone hot springs spa in the heart of Japan. 

Stepping from the van, all the weariness of travel slowly began to disappear.  Koi lazily swam through the crystal clear pools lining the pathway to the hot springs-- their stark white, shimmering silver and gold, and bold orange colors vibrant against the backdrop of black rock and the dark green foliage.  These fish provided the perfect example for experiencing the hot springs--slowly and with deliberate calm. 

From hot soaking pools to plunges in cold water to letting the warm waters of a hot spring waterfall cascade over the body; to sitting with eyes closed soaking up the warm steam in the sauna to drifting lazily across a crytal clear pool on an air matress; to concluding green tea served in a koi-pool surrounded tea house, my first evening in Japan was pure magic. 

I was ready to stay at Hakone for the entire month of our visit, yet, I knew there were other treasures to behold and experiences to be had in Japan.